...like a beer geek scorned. Please excuse the pun, it’s the best I can do at the moment. There has been a lot of chatter recently around the beer community about the latest seasonal release by Surly. I’m not sure if it’s really even considered a seasonal but this is the second annual release of 'Hell' their version of a Helles lager - although I have also heard it categorized as a Zwickel or Kellerbier. One thing I learned this year is that "helles" is actually a German word meaning 'light'. I'm still not sure if that means not heavy or not dark. Either way it fits as this beer is both light on the palate and light in color. Traditionally (as in Light American Lager) that would also suggest light on flavor and light on enjoyment but this is anything but. Well, at least that's how I perceived it. This, however, is the root of a lot of debate. There was a lot of hype over this beer's release (first time in cans this year) and the limited availability has created quite a bit of hysteria. The Four Firkins, one of the finest craft beer stores in the city, received 10 cases. I think that equates to sixty 4-paks. There was a limit of two 4-paks per customer and they still sold out in about an hour. Why all the discussion? Well you can read about all the yays and nays here and here (in the comments section).
Personally, I am absolutely tickled to see the beer community getting excited about a non-extreme beer. At the same time I love seeing one of the most respected extreme brewers shift gears and tackle a style that's been relatively untouched by the craft brew scene. Between you and me, I think Todd (head brewer) just wanted to make a beer he could call Hell, but that's just me. On to the review:
Surly Hell
In a tall Pilsner glass this beer comes out dark golden even amber and despite its unfilteredness it is very clear. A small poufy one finger white head quickly reduces to a ring. I stick my nose deep into the less-then-full glass and take a big whiff. Woah, the hops that I am told are not there hit me in the face. The can says there are American hops in here but I am getting some spicy floral noble finishing hops in the aroma. The sweet citrusy American hops are there as well. Also present is a refreshing bready grainy aroma. The flavor is more of the same. I am getting corn, spicy hops and a serious bitterness that along with the vibrant carbonation scrubs the back of my tongue and down my throat. Mouthfeel is medium bodied and easily drinkable. No astringency or creaminess to speak of but certainly the aforementioned carbonation. Very refreshing and a lot bigger, in my opinion, than the style would suggest. This is a great beer. A nice clean lager with sharp edges. There are a lot of varying opinions out there about this beer but that is what I love about the beer community and my online beer geek friends. My opinion? More please!
Cheers, DA
Beer This!
1 comment:
Glad to hear you enjoyed it. I didn't dig this brew a ton when I had a pint of it last year on tap but it seemed much richer in flavor this year and I was quite pleased with Hell for what it is. To answer your question Hell(es) refers to the light color, literally meaning "bright" in German.
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